At an altitude of 2,601 meters, nestled between the vertical and austere walls of the Catinaccio, lies one of the most authentic and captivating refuges in the Dolomites: Rifugio Passo Principe (known in German as Grasleitenpasshütte). Here, every step has the flavor of adventure, and every bite tells the straightforward story of true mountain life. It’s a destination that attracts experienced hikers, climbers, and even curious walkers in search of a warm meal, a slice of strudel, and a view that takes your breath away.
Don’t expect embroidered tablecloths or Michelin-starred dishes: at Rifugio Passo Principe, the cuisine is real, sincere, mountain food, made to warm you up after a hike, to make you feel welcomed and satisfied. Here, every dish comes from alpine tradition, with simple and genuine ingredients that taste like home.
You’ll find hot soups that smell of garden and wood, canederli in broth that feel like a gentle embrace after the effort, steaming polenta with melted cheese and savory stew that tell ancient stories of mountain huts and barns. And then, fried eggs with crispy speck and roasted potatoes, the classic refuge dish that fills both the stomach and the heart.
Each dish is made with local ingredients, often brought up with cable cars or carried on foot, and served with that simple smile that only the mountains can offer. To complete the meal, there’s the apple strudel, with its crisp pastry and the aroma of cinnamon: to be savored slowly, perhaps sitting on the small stone terrace, while your gaze drifts between the peaks of the Catinaccio and the clear sky. In those moments, you realize that the mountain is not just something to traverse — it’s something to savor.
For those who don’t want to return to the valley right away, the refuge offers the possibility to spend the night. The shared dormitories and bunk beds tell a simple, essential experience, centered around togetherness.
Spending a night at Passo Principe means connecting with the soul of the Dolomites. No artificial light, no noise around you: just the breath of the mountain and the warmth of wood. There’s no need for an alarm, because the dawn takes care of it, painting the vertical walls around the refuge in shades of pink, offering one of the most breathtaking spectacles you can experience at high altitude.
Foto © Andreas Tamanini
